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Nov. 2, 1926.

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R. H. LAWSON NG BY ACTION OF CAS TING'OFF MECHANISM REVERSE PLATI Filed Aug; 6. 1925 15 Sheets-Sheet 6 Nov. 2, 1926. 1.605.895

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Nov. 2, 1926.

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R. H. LAWSON REVERSE PLATING BY ACTION OF CASTING-OFF MECHANISM Filed 1925 15 Sheets-Sheet 15 I750 wg/rs IFWUfYbi OW: 15022003 El; Lawson.

Patent U r it;

ill...

ROBERT E. Lawson, or rawrn'c'nn'r, nnonn rsran'n, nssrenon 'rofnnnrnnm co- IPANY, or cnnr r nnvnnsn marine nr narrow or cns'rrne-orr Mncnanrsnt.

, Application filed August This invention relates to reverse plating by the action of casting ofl' mechanism and includes not only the novel mechanism one type of which will be disclosed, but also a novel process and fabric as well as novel instrumentaliti'es herein disclosed as web holders.

In order that the principle of the invention may readily be understood, l have disclosed a single embodiment of the mecha nism, the fabric and the instrumentalities, and will describe the best way known to me for carrying out the process or method of my invention.

In the drawings: Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a hose or stocking constructed in accordance with my in vention, the vertical'stripes being short or interrupted;

' make apparent the structure of the fabric of Fig. 1; r

Fig. 3 is a View similar to Fig. 1, hut representing the vertical stripes as continuous throughout the leg and foot of the hose or I stocking;

Fig. 4 is a perspective'view of a portion only of the fabric of Fig. 3 and upon an en-;

larged scale to show the manner in which the vertical stripes are formed;

- Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but representing .both; continuous and interrupted vertical stripesv and also horizontal stripes;

Fig. 6 is a view' similar to Fig. 2, but of:

the structure shown in Fig. 5;

Fig. 7

's an end elevation-of a knitting" *machine having the mechanism of my invention;

tion applied thereto and by which my prooess or method may be practiced of themechanism' Fig. 8 is arear elevation shown in Fig. 7 n

- Fig. 9 is a horizontal section taken under the latch ring of the machine'and showingmachine, having hertain controlling cams ap Fig. 2 is a very much enlarged detaiL illustrating enough of the stitches or loops'tol scale, of

rants, nnonn :rsnaivn, 1i conrona'rron on snonn'sntrrs.

e, 1925. serial are. same. plied thereto in accordance with my invention:

of the mechanism shown in Fig. 10;

the knitting machine and adjacent parts of Fig. 12 is a rear elevation of the head of the mechanism for controllingthe fcarns shown in Fig. 10; Fig. 13 is an elevation oat said mechanism viewed from the left in Fi '12;

Fig. 14 is an elevation 0 said mechanism viewed from the right in Fig. 12;

Fig. 15 is a perspective view of certain of. the casting ofi instrumentalities employed in'makingthe'hose or stocking of Figsal and 2 and the associated needles, etc.; i

Fig; .16 is an end view in Fi-g. 15;-. H Figs. 17 and 18 are views sin: to Figs. '15 and 16, but of the parts aemplo gred;- in

of the parts-shown making the hose or St0GklIlg,,0]l

and 4;

Figs. '19 and 20 are views similarto .15 and 16, but of the parts employed in making the 'hose or stoc n showninFigs. 5 and 6.

Fig. .21 is a view similar to: Fig. but- Y representing still another arrangement of vertical str1pes;

Fig. 22 is a detail, on a more enlarged Fig. 21 ;1

, Fig. 23 is a detail in plan of certain of the Fig. 25 represents,in sidelevation, seven a portion of the fabric shown in i and four special web holders, that may be 1 used with the mechanismhereinldisclosed; co

difierent positions of a special web holderand. the adjacent needle','i'n the formation of v i a reversel'y plated loop; I 3

Fig. 25 is an enlarged view of the needle as shown in Fig. 25

Fig.26 is a representation,'- similar to Fig. 25, of corresponding positions of a regular web holder and the adjacent needle, intht-lforinationot a normally plated loop;

Fig. 26? is an enlarged view as shown in Fig. 26" Figs. 27, 27, 28

of the needle Ema; 28 re "enlar ed in appear upon theouter face thereof, thus seviews, in side elevation; of needles that may be 'used in the, practice'of my invention in the formation of reversely plated and normally plated, loops respectively;

Fig.,29, is a view in side elevation of the latch ring, one ofthe yarn fingers and the means for feeding the two yarns or threads to their thread guides; and

f Fig. is a transverse section of the structure "shown in Fig. 29, and shows all the yarn guides.

In accordance with my, invention I pro: vide lengthwise-extending stripes in fabrics formed wholly or in large part by a plating action, such fabric being herein represented as a hose or stocking. It is evident, however, that my invention is not necessarily limited to the production of hosiery, although it is peculiarly adapted thereto and- I shall disclose the same as made upon a circular knitting machine, of the independent needle type.

Lengthwise-extending or, what may briefly be termed as vertical stripes, have long,

' rics.

been made in hosiery and other knitted fab- For example (and using the term vertical in a broad sense as meaning extending in a direction generally lengthwise of the fabric) vertical stripes have been madeby employing two yarns, which are fed together and in such manner'a's to produce plating, and at the desired points floating one of said yarns so as toproduce a stripe of the color of the other yarn.

My invention is radically contrasted from those fabrics wherein the vertical stripe is produced by the floating of ,one of the yarns at predetermined times. In accordance with my invention plating the fabric throughout the whole or a predetermined extent thereof is effected, (if the fabric be a hose Or stocking,the heel and toe and the garter top or upper end thereof are desirably =not plated) and Where a vertical stripe is desired I effect a reversal of the plating operation. That is, upon certain parts of the plated work I cause one of the threads to appear upon the outer face thereof and in other partsI causethe other thread to v curing a so-called vertical striping. Such vertical striping may be characterized ."by

-'continuous or long stripes,-or by short or in- 'terrupted stripes, or various combinations of continuous and'interrupted stripes maybe resorted to, with-the-re'sult that'a great va- .riety of effects may be produeed in accordance with my lnve'ntion.

' I am aware that there as disclosed in the patent to Tebbutt', No. 1,145,522,- July 6th, 1915, to form full-fashioned goods having I single-needle' stripes wherein two yarns are fed in a plating relation to each other, and wherein, by the employment of a so-called thread reversing diample, I operatewith independent needles,

between which are positioned casting off instrumentalities herein shown as web holders and, when no vertical striping is to be effected, all said web holders or instrumentalities act in what may be-termed a normal manner, so that what I may term normal plating results. Certain of said web holders or instrumentalities are of peculiar formation and, when reverse plating is to be secured, are projected inward at an earlier point circumferentially considered, in accordance with my invention, so as to engage the yarn which was the backing yarn dur" ing normal plating, and so to position the same that it becomes the facing or front yarn. By the employment of suitable means, preferably automatic, the normal plating. may be interrupted at any point and reverse plating may be effected at any desired wales and continued for. as few or as many courses as desired, then to. be replaced by normal plating.

Such normal and reverse plating are effected without any change in the relative -tension of the, two yarns and ,no measuring of the yarn is effected in the formation of the loops, as is characteristic of full-fashioned knitting machines. i I

Referring more particularlyto the drawings I have, in Fig. 1, represented at 1 a hose or stocking having a top' portion which, in the. case of a stocking, may be the garter top or, in the case of a'hosefmay be a rib top.

Th'e'stocking is formed upon a circular independent needle machine, preferably of the nating with short stripes 7' of another color.

In the particular structure shown in Fig. 1 each stripe 6,"when discontinued, is replaced by a stripe-7 in the same wales, and the constant repetition/of this effect produces the result shown and which is merely has been proposed, \one example [of the effect-which may be produced. a

Referring to Fig. 2, it may be assumed that the short stripe therein indicated as B is produced by feeding a white 8 and a red yarn 9 in such manner, (namely with the red yarn under. tension and the white yarn without tension, "and also with the red yarn fed slightly in advance, circumferentially considered, of the white yarn, all as hereinafter disclosed) that" the red yarn 9 appears upon the outside or face of the fabric at the points indicated, the white yarn 8 being at such points also knitted into the fabric in each loop thereof but plated therewith, so that it will appear only at the back or inside face of the stocking or other fabric at such points. The white stripes C C, on the con trary, are produced" by causing the casting ofi instrumentalities' (herein disclosed as web holders) to push or force the white yarn 8'to the front, so that it appears upon the outer or front face of the fabrici the red yarn, therefore, notwithstanding the tension.

thereon, appearing at the inner or rear face of the fabric.

In Figs. 3 and 4 l have indicated another efl'ect produced in accordance with my invention. In Fig. 3 the stocking 10 has con tinuous vertical orlengthwise stripes 11 of one yarn (red), between which are equallength stripes 12 of the otheryarn (white).

While these stripesmay be of any desired width, l[ have represented certain relatively wide white stripes 12 and l have shown the red stripes 11 as of a single needle width only, although it is to be understood that they may be of any desired width. Each red stripe 11 is formed by what I term reverse plating and the red yarn 13 appears at the front and the white yarn 14 at the back, whereas thisappearance is reversed in the white stripes 12, which are formed by nor- 7 mal plating.

In Figs. 5 and 6 I have-represented still another appearance characteristic of my invention. Therein the hose or stocking 15 is provided with certain uninterrupted red stripes 16 caused by normal plating and certain short or interrupted red stripes 17 also causedby normal plating, between which are white stripes 18 caused by reverse plating and which may be interrupted or continued as desired. I In this embodiment of the fabric of my invention and as shown also in f Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4, is preferably produced tit) by interrupting, momentarily or forany desired length of time the feeding of both the plating yarns and substituting therefor one yarn. or two yarnsbothof the same color, which are'fed without any plating relation, so as to produce the horizontal stripes 19 which, in turn, arediscontinued. when plat ing and reverseplating are again employed.

Thus the fabric of Figures 5 and 6 is pro- 'duced by three or it may be four yarns, there being a red'yarn .21 and a white yarn 22 both knitted upon all the needles in a plating relation respectively normal and reversed to makethe vertical stripes and a single yarn 23 or a double yarn which is substituted for the yarns 21, 22 and is continued only so long as the horizontal stripe is to be made.

Referring now to the mechanism by which the fabric is produced, it is to be understood that, assuming for purposesof description I have chosen to represent the same as applied to a mac-hine of the well-lmown Banner type'disclosed in the patent to Joshua D. Hemphill, No. 933,443,;datedSeptember 7, 1909. In this type of machine the needle.

cylinder rotates while the cams remain stationary and, although the machine disclosed is-for the purpose of producing hosiery, it is obviously not limited to this class of work. I will, howeveigdescribe my inventionas applied to a machine of such type without limiting itthereto excepting when expressly so stated in the claims.

Generally speaking, the machine includes a rotating needle cylinder 24 mounted upon a suitable table 25 constituting a part of the frame of the knitting machine and, as is custzomary in this type of machine, said cylinder s arranged to be rotated to form the leg and the foot and to be reciprocated to" form the heel and toe of the stocking. The means for effecting the rotary and reciprocating movement are substantially the same as those shown and described in the said Hemphill patent and, being well known, require no further description. g v

A plurality -.of yarn feeding elements is provided so as to feed not only the two yapns for plating but so as to feed such other yarns as may be required as, for example, the yarn or yarns for producing the horizontal strip-- ing, the yarn or yarns for, the heel, the yarn or yarns for the toe, and the high splicing and sole-reinforcing yarn.v Such feeding elements and the means for controlling the same will be hereinafter more fullyv referred The machine is, as stated, of the inde endent needlet-ype and the needles are esirably latch needles, as will be hereinafter more fully pointed out. Therefore, ll employ a latch ring 26 equipped with suitable binder mechanism generally indicated at 27 and controlled by link and lever mechanism'generally indicated at and which need not, he further described otherwise than to state that the same is controlledfrom the pattern cylinder. Theentire mechanism is driven from the main drive shaft 29, having thereon the usual pulleys indicated at 30 in Fig.

8, and also havingsuitable" gearing includwidening pickers. which. are indicated at 35 and 36 respectively, see particulai lyFig. 9. These pickers are desirably those of the said Banner" machine and require no furv ther description.

The needle cylinder 24. as most clearly shown in Fig. 11, is provided with the usual needle grooves 37, wherein are mounted the latch needles 38. At the upper end of the cylinder is provided the usual web holder bed ring 39 having formed in its upper face. as lusual. radial grooves receiving web holders indicated generally at- 40, capable of radial movement in said grooves and reciprocated therein by certain cams now to be particularly described. The cap ring 41 is provided and, excepting as hereinafter pointed out. the bed ring 39 and the cap ring 41 are or may be of the usual construction. The said cap ring 41 has formed in its under face a suitable channel 4'2't0 receive the upwardly extending butts of the-entire series of web holders.

The said web holders, instead of being all of the same construction and of the same length of butt, are-contrastingly formed, .de-.

sirably as follows:

1 What may be termed the regular web holders are generally. indicated at A in Fig. 17 and elsewhere. The said regular web holders are provided wit-h rearwardly extending guide port-ions 43 having short upwardly extending butts 44 to be operated by the cam 45 therefor, shown most clearly in Fig. 10'and-which cam desirably constitutes a 'fixed part of the cap ring 41, since its position in said cap ring is or may be invariable. I employ one or a plurality of sets of special web holders. but desirably two sets thereof. for purposes which will be apparcut. l1 have indicated at B in Fig. 15 and elsewhere one of the web holders of the first "special set. it having the rearwardly extending guide portion 46 and the medium height 'butt 4?. The butts 47 of this group of web holders B are operated by the fixed cam 45 when said web holders B function as regular web holders and by the radially movable cam 48 when functioning as special ,web holders. Said movable cam 48 is clearly. shown in plan in Fig. 10 as positioned directly over the regular cam 45. In addition, in this embodiment of "my invention, I also employ a group of special web holders C having rearwardly extending guiding por tions 48- and high butts- 49, desirably when functioning as special web holders.

The web holders A are each provided'with the throat 51 and above the same with the the dportions 52 of the regular webholders. Sai

portions 54 are of peculiar formation.

They areprovided with quite sharp noses 55, below each of which is the inclined edge I56 and above.which is the inclined edge 57,

the latter extending back to an edge 58,-

which is inclined backward at the angle shown instead of being vertical. 1 have discovered.- in the course of my experiinenta-r tion that, if the faces 58 were vertical, they would occasionally cause a severing of, the yarn against the adjacent needles at one side or the other in making the heel or toe (and hence when acting as regular web'holders) whereas, when the edge 58 is inclined as shown, the yarn may slip up' the said edge and be released at the top of the web holder.

instead of being caught and severed by a vertical edge of the web holder and the adjacent needle stems:

If a stocking without the vertical striping is desired, that is, if solid or what I term normal plating is to .be provided. all of" the web holders, including the special web holders B and C as well as the regular web holders A. aremoved inwardly to the same radial extent and function as .usual web holders. If. however, vertical striping is to be provided, one or both groups of said web hold ers B andC, according to the pattern desired. is or are moved inward at an earlier period by means of, their respective cams 48 and 51, so as to cause each" of said special web holders that is to function in the creation of reverse plating to engage they back yarn (that is. the white yarn of Figs. 1, 2,

5 and (for the red yarn of Figs. 3 and 4) so as to move the same inwardly in advance of the yarn which had appeared at the front innormal plating. so.that the result is to produce stripes of a width determined by thenumber of consecutive special web holders B or C and of a length dependent upon the lengthof time the cam 48 or the cam 51 therefor is in its inner radial position and which in turn isdependentupon the pattern control, and of the color of the back yarn duringnormal plating. i

The cams 48 and: 51 are coaxially pivoted at 59 in the cap ring 41 and are pro-' vided with rearwardly extending ends 60. 61 respectively engaged by springs 62, 63,

, times.

secured atfid upon the cap ring and. acting:

normally to force said earns 18 and 51 outwardly into a position where they will not act upon'the butts of the respective weh holders B and C, or at least will not move the narrowing picker side of the machine,

as illustrated in Fig. 9, are mounted for sliding movement two hars'66, 67, of which theoverlying or upper bar 66 strikes a pin 68 upon the overlying cam 51 and the lower bar 67 strikes a pin 69 upon the underlying movable cam 48. Thus, at times determined by the respective controlling means for the said bars, one or the other of the said cams 48', 51 is moved radially inward suficiently for it to cause the special web holders controlled thereby to engage the hackyarn and effect reverse plating in the manner already described.

Each bar 66, 67 is connected by a pin, one of which is indicated at 70 in Fig. 9, to the proper lever 71, 72, pivoted at 73 upon the framing of themachine so as to he swung in a horizontal plane at the proper The levers 71 and 72 are at their outer ends notched, as indicated at 74, 7d, and are there engaged by thereduced ends 75, 76 of hell crank levers 77, i8 coarially pivoted at 79 upon a hracket 80 and respectively connected at 81, 82 to downwardly extending links 83, 84, which are respectively connected at 585, 86 to levers 87., 88

coaxially pivoted at 89 upon the training. The inner ends of said levers 87, 88 are provided with noses 90-, 91 that ride upon suit able cams 92, 93 on cam or pattern drum 9t upon the usual pattern'shalt 95. v

1 The cams upon the pattern drum, which control said levers 8'1, 88 are of such length and such shape as to provide vertical stripes,

. hy a reverse plating action, of the length desired. v

The stockingin Figs. 1 and 2 is made hy using only special weh holders B and C. In the middle part of Fig. 2 the special weh holders B are used to .ellect the normal plating in red and these weh holders are then pushed in by their special cam d8 as descrihed to make the reverseplating in white thereheneath. At right and left the special weh holders G are used and they make the white reverse plating when pushed in hut, it they operate as normal weh holders, they will make the red therehelow.

The stoclring in Figs. 5 and 6 is made hy the use of all three wehholdersh, B and C. The short red rows are made by the plain weh holders A and the red would he con tinuous were itnot interrupted to make the horizontal stripes made by the introduction of a new yarn, namelya white yam. The

uninterrupted white stripes are made by the special web holders B, which are pushed in by their own cam 48, namely the cam lying next. above the stationary cam.-

Referring again to Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive and tm Figs. 10 and 11, it is to be understood that Figs. 1 to 6 are typical only of certain pattern eifects which may be produced, and that my-invention is in nowise limited to the production of said patterns. If any portion of the stocking or other fabric is to he made with solid uniform plating throughout complete courses, all the weh holders act as regular web holders whether, as a matter of fact, they are of the type 01 web-holders A or B or C and, in such case,

' their hutts are all engaged hy the stationary cam 45 and project in only at such time as to produce normal plating which, in the case of Figs. 1, 2, 5 and 6, may he assumed to be red and, in the case of Figs. 3 and 4, may he assumed to he white.- It reverse'plating is to he made at anypoint, this depending upon whether the reverse plating is to he efiected hy the use of weh holders 1B or web holders (1', the cam 48, or 51, as the casemay he, is pushed in hy the connections descrihed, so that said specialweh holders B or C are projected in radially at an earlier period, that is, slightly sooner as already descrihed, so as to push what in normal plating was the haclr yarn over into such a position that it hecomes the trout or lacing yarn, and reverse plating occurs. 7

Referring specifically to Figs. 1 and 2, it'

. weh holders ll The portion shown in red in the upper part of the center of the figure and herein indicated hy a hracket 1B, is pro duced hy the special weh holders B, which, a

in making said portion B of normal plating, are pushed in hy the stationary cam 45 at the regular time, thus making normal plating. The white portion in the same wales therehelow and marlred 1B" is produced hy moving inwardly the cam 48 so as to engage the hutts of these weh holders lB' (namely the medium wide hutts) and therehy cause thewhite yarn to he pushed to the trout and reverse plating to occur.

The white short stripes to the rug t and i to the left 01 the hracket 1B and erein marked C G are produced hy the special weh holders tl,-heing projected inwardly hy their cam '51 so that they engage the white yarn and push the same to the front and thereby efig'ect reverse plating. The short stripes indicated as red'helow the short stripes G G and herein marked G" C are produced hy withdrawing the movahle cam 51 and causing said special weh holders G to 

